Lack Enclosure for 3D Printer

UPDATE: 2021-11-17 - External link to acrylic panel dimensions: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-DQ4vnDarU_2ahzLtE5PGvU7BmXczHMu?usp=sharing

This is my take on a Lack Enclosure. I appreciate that there are literally hundreds of other designs out there, but I figured it was a learning experience to design my own. That also gave me the chance to add a few features that I wanted that I didn't see elsewhere.

The Ikea Lack table is not the most stable of furniture. So, I wanted more stability without having to rely on threaded screws in very thin material. To this end, I wanted to fix the legs to the table in a reliable way by using nuts & bolts that go all the way through the table and clamp the printed parts to the table. This does mean you will have to drill holes all the way through the table top - you WILL need a decent drill stand for this - don't try it free hand, you'll never get the holes to align properly.

I also wanted to increase the available internal height, so the BaseLeg_x3.stl and TopLeg_x4.stl add an extra 5.5cm each - so there is 11cm total extra internal height on top of the table legs.

I wanted to mount the PSU on the underside of the table - this is entirely optional. I created a slot in the BaseLeg_Power_x1.stl and BottomLegToBase_Power_x1.stl to be able to feed the power cables through to the inside of the enclosure. If you want the PSU mounted internally, you could still use the slot to route the mains power cable through. Obviously you wouldn't then need to print either of the PSU_Bracket.stl files. Note that the oval hole in the BottomLegToBase_Power.stl is sufficiently sized to pass all the PSU power cables including a USB cable (for raspberry Pi power) and twin-core LED cable - it's a tight squeeze but it will fit. I added some inline sockets to the power cables so I can detach the cables and remove the printer from the enclosure without having to unplug the molex connectors inside the Rambo board. Again, this is optional. IMPORTANT: do NOT use cheap connectors as they will melt (as I found out). I used mains connectors like these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connectors-Preciva-Assortment-Conductor-Electrical/dp/B088BQM4VM

I provided a round cable pathway through the TopLeg_x4.stl models to allow power leads for LED strip lighting to be routed through it. Note that in my photos, I completely forgot to use them and am too lazy to reroute the cables.

The panels are 3mm thick acrylic with dimensions shown in the layouts. They are designed to be held in place by 12mm diameter 3mm thick round magnets. Note that the circular rebates in the side and rear panels for the magnet holders are optional, but it helps to seat the holders and gets the magnets closer to the matching ones inside the enclosure. I glued the magnets and holders in place with superglue. If you get your panels professionally cut, each cut will cost you, so you can choose to leave out the corner chamfers if you want.

The bar magnets for the door latches are 20 x 10 x 2mm. I just superglued these inside the rebates in the corresponding Latch.stl printed parts. Just make sure the magnets are correctly aligned so they attract one another. The latches for the door are friction fit for 3mm thick acrylic. Just force them onto the door corners into the small cutaways provided.

Note that the LED lighting supports (I used [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387112](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2387112)), LCD supports (I used [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2953070](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2953070)) and Raspberry pi articulating camera arms ([https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849)) you see in the photos are entirely optional and taken straight off other excellent designs on Thingiverse.

I have included an optional filament guide that can be mounted at the back of the top table in the middle. It has threads for PC4-M6 fittings [https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HSL6296](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07HSL6296) to feed 4mm teflon tubing through for a reverse bowden setup. There is a matching cutaway in the back panel acrylic diagram. If you want to use an alternative filament guide, ensure you don't cut the notch out of the top of the rear acrylic panel.

The hinges were taken from: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1933479](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1933479)
The door handles were modified from: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1228617](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1228617)
The door latches were inspired by from: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2923031](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2923031)
The PSU holder is modified from: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3349588](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3349588)
The filament guide is modified from: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3491533](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3491533)

1) 24 of 8mm diameter, 3mm thick round neodymium magnets - [https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert%C2%AE-12mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B00TACGDUA](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnet-Expert%C2%AE-12mm-thick-Neodymium/dp/B00TACGDUA)
2) 8 of 20 x 10 x 2 mm rectangular bar magnets [https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076CMJLGR](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076CMJLGR)
3) 44 of M5 12mm countersunk hex socket bolts
4) 4 of M5 16mm countersunk hex socket bolts
5) 20 of M5 60mm countersunk hex socket bolts
6) 48 of M5 square nuts (thin type DIN562)
7) 20 of M5 washers (flat form C type)
8) 20 of M5 hex nuts
9) 12 of M4 16mm countersunk hex socket bolts
10) 12 of M4 hex nuts
11) 28 of No.10 1" Countersunk pozi self-tapping screws
12) 44 of No.10 3/4" Countersunk pozi self-tapping screws
13) 4 of Rubber feet (40mm diameter)

You can always use standard pozi/philips head bolts in place of the hex socket bolts.