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Hinged Mahjong Card Holder

Plan Your Print
About 147 g of filament
Print Profile (3) 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill 3h 50m 147 g PLA
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
2 plates 3h 50m 147 g PLA
P2S, H2S, A1, H2C, X2D, H2D Pro, A2L, H2D
Plate Details (2)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
2h 13m 87 g PLA · 87 g
Plate 2
1h 37m 60 g PLA · 60 g
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
2 plates 3h 49m 147 g PLA
P1S, X1E, X1, H2D Pro, P2S, P1P, A1, X1 Carbon, H2D, H2C, X2D, A2L, H2S
Plate Details (2)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
2h 12m 87 g PLA · 87 g
Plate 2
1h 37m 60 g PLA · 60 g
A1 mini for regular sized cards and ridges removed
2 plates 2h 40m 96 g PLA
A1 mini, P2S, H2S, H2C, X2D, H2D, A2L, X1 Carbon, H2D Pro, X1, A1, X1E, P1P, P1S
I am very new at this but seemed adding negative parts and cutting worked to size this for my A1 mini to hold regular cards. It seems a lot of others are asking for this size so hope it works for you! Mike take this down if not allowed. If I've read the rules correctly it is OK since it is a print profile and not a remix or shared elsewhere. And thanks again for a great print! I'll eventually have to get a larger printer!
Plate Details (2)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
1h 31m 55 g PLA · 55 g
Plate 2
1h 10m 41 g PLA · 41 g
As sliced by the designer. Your printer, filament, and settings may change these numbers.
Designer's Description

After making a print in place version, I devided to make a hinged version for ease of storage and to make it more portable. I used a cut piece of filament for the hinge-pin. This allows for easy replacement, and give the ability to change out for different color plates to keep it fresh, if you feel so inclined.

If you want to make it semi-permanent, you can melt the end of the filament and press it flat to the hinges and it will lock it in place. I haven't had any issues with it coming apart without doing that, so it probably isn't necessary.

With the overhang on the bottom of the card holder, I made a version that was two pieces that could be glued together, but overall, I didn't like the look of it, so I tried the overhang. I was able to print it with no supports as well.

*EDIT*

So, one thing I've come up with a different solution for is the collapsed holes in the hinges. Like I had said in the comments, it doesn't always happen, and I'm still trying to track that down. I looked on Maker's Supply, but couldn't find metal rods small enough, so I went on Amazon and purchesed these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCB6KGC3/?coliid=I16HOO5NQ58Z7N&colid=8JTTFNBRSOXC&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_lstpd_8DQ2WG73D2K6QCZMG8Y1

They seem to fit, even in the collapsed holes, so I didn't have to scrap any of those. I did find that if you cut the rods just a little bit shorter than the hinges are wide, you can superglue a small piece of filament in the end holes of the hinges to make a plug. It also allows for removal if needed without having to reprint the model, just a slight bit of drilling to remove the plug. I've done quote a few that way, and it is far easier and smoother than just putting the hinge pins in with glue.

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Mahjong box art Mahjong 1850 Lift the Lid
Cover Colors

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