Nine Spirits' Islands – 3-box organizer for ALL Spirit Island content, optimized for 1 to 9+ players

This is a near complete remake of js500’s openSCAD design . Overarching goals were:

• Three boxes, no lid lift
• Easy game setup and breakdown
• Can fully support 9 players (archipelago)
• Major/minor deck, for up to 6 spirits
• Power progression deck, for up to 7 spirits

• GitHub repo
• openSCAD files, to see version-controlled changes
• BGG post
• printable files, such as Power Progression Deck cards and overlays
• Q&A

• 9 islands
• 6 individual islands (A-F)
• 3-island board from the Horizons expansion (F, G, H)
• 44 fear tokens
• 9x4 premium/regular (box2)
• 2x4 overflow (box3)
• If you ever need more than 44 fear, consider using a 0-99 health/point counter
• 20 scenario tokens
• 8 numbered, 12 blank (box3)
• 104 Defense tokens (box1)
• x16 of #’s 1-3
• x8 of #’s 4-10
• Tokens originated here
• Resized to 97% to fit in box1
• Defense holders designed from scratch
• Can also use a token to track turn number
• Element tracker boards x8 (box3)
• Original idea here
• Redesigned to match this organizer’s theme
• Player-ready board (box2)
• Turn-order board (box2)

If you have at least the base game + JE + Horizons expansions, you have 9 maps. You can play this game archipelago style with an unlimited number of players now, which works especially well if you put newer players alongside experienced ones. We’ve had a number of incredibly fun 7 - 9 spirit games on a single table. 3-island archipelagos seem like a sweet spot for newer players, but do whatever is fun.

This setup works as is for 9 players as long as 3+ pick a low complexity spirit with a power progression deck. Otherwise, just keep an extra major/minor deck handy for every 6 players or large archipelago. If Ocean is in play, we house-rule a hard cap of 4-6 health / energy gain (4 for newer players).

The biggest issues with larger player counts are when people:

• Don’t know what phase we’re in
• Don’t know when others are ready
• Don’t know which elements are available for their innate powers
• Run out of element tokens

The turn-order board and player-ready boards in box2 address issues 1 and 2. The element-tracker boards + extra tokens in box3 address issues 3 and 4. These make for a cleaner experience overall.

I don't sleeve the larger adversary/scenario cards, but I think this should work if you move the England build card into the box3 spirit panel holder. If not, just raise the scenario/adversary card holders' dimensions in the openSCAD file and print fewer element trackers (I use 2.5m thickness per row of trackers).

I use classic (greyboard) spirit panels for all spirits including Horizons. Every time we tried with foil/cardstock, most players asked to swap to the thicker boards. You can use classic/greyboard spirit panels or foil/cardstock with this setup, but there isn't enough space to use both.

• Modify box1 to support smaller box sizes
• (can accept a PR if someone wants to do the quick math / 3mm decreases and a test print)
• Update my randomizers to include "Summary of Powers" content
• Update my fear bin so fear tokens slide more easily from one section to the other

I essentially "vibe-coded" the OpenSCAD code with Gemini Pro – extended settings. Gemini Flash didn't work at all for this type of logic and usually made the code worse. The "advanced math/code" setting with Pro was really helpful for figuring out basic geometry, which I then modified by hand in code.

PNG/SVG sources:

• Spirit Island Wiki
• Spirit Island Builder ( GitHub )
• Custom PNG -> SVG conversions via Inkscape
• Some images / cards were made directly in Figma ± Word
• NO AI was used for image generation or manipulations

This project shines with a multifilament printer. I used a 0.4mm nozzle with standard settings @ 0.2mm for the majority of this print. For adversaries, I used high quality @ 0.08mm to make the flags look clean. No need for supports on any print.

Note: If re-importing lids from box3 (island x2, fear x1), you need to import the lid + text STL files together into your slicer as a single object. That will let you assign multiple colors on a flat first layer, which looks nicer than an engraving, IMO.