Table Talk
Nothing here yet. Love this design? Say so - the designer might see it.

Cthulhu Death May Die Player Dashboard

Plan Your Print
Optional multicolor profile The designer also offers a multicolor way to print this (an MMU/AMS profile or per-color parts)
About 42 g of filament From the designer's print profile
Print Profile (4) Bottom Sections 1h 46m 69 g PLA
Bottom Sections
2 plates 1h 46m 69 g PLA
P2S, A2L, X1, P1P, X1E, H2D, H2S, A1 mini, P1S, A1, H2C, H2D Pro, X2D, X1 Carbon
Plate Details (2)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
49m 31 g PLA · 31 g
Plate 2
57m 38 g PLA · 38 g
Top sections with painted colors (AMS required)
2 plates 8h 42 g PLA
P1S, P1P, X1 Carbon, X1, A1, H2D Pro, X1E, A2L, H2D, X2D, H2C, H2S, P2S
Plate Details (2)
0.2 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
3h 28m 18 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 3 g PLA · 13 g
Plate 2
4h 32m 24 g PLA · 3 g PLA · 3 g PLA · 18 g
Top sections 0.4mm nozzle and colored layers (no AMS needed)
2 plates 4h 2m 36 g PLA
P2S, X2D, H2D Pro, A1, X1 Carbon, P1S, H2C, H2D, X1E, H2S, X1, A2L, P1P
Picture is a test print with all but the last 1 or 2 tan layers omitted (likely causing the imperfections in those initial layers). Ignoring those imperfections, there's very little difference from this print and my other prints using the 0.2mm nozzle. Both are using a 0.12mm layer height, but the 0.2mm print is using a finer 0.15mm layer width (while this one is using 0.25mm).
Plate Details (2)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
1h 52m 17 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 13 g
Plate 2
2h 10m 19 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 15 g
Top sections with colored layers (not requiring an AMS)
2 plates 7h 9m 32 g PLA
P2S, X1 Carbon, H2S, X2D, H2D, H2C, A2L, A1 mini, X1E, H2D Pro, X1, P1P, P1S, A1
This version of the two sections has filament changes specified at layers 18 and 23 in the preview.
Plate Details (2)
0.2 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
3h 17m 15 g PLA · 15 g
Plate 2
3h 53m 17 g PLA · 17 g
As sliced by the designer. Your printer, filament, and settings may change these numbers.
Designer's Description

EDIT 2: There's a updated version of this project here : https://makerworld.com/en/models/2542639-cthulhu-death-may-die-player-dashboard-v1-1#profileId-2799513. The changes are relatively minor and it's even possible (but probably unlikely) that some people might actually prefer this older design (the markers sit deeper in the dashboard in this version). Note that although a very minor change was made to the bottom sections, the old ones here are still compatible with the newer top sections and shouldn't need to re-printed if you want to upgrade.

EDIT: After comparing the prints of the top sections using the 0.2mm nozzle and 0.4mm nozzle, I'd recommend printing the latter as very little detail is lost and the 0.4mm nozzle print takes ½ the time and the extruded details should be less fragile. Further (and unexpectedly), I prefer the results of the colored layers vs. the painted ones as it gives the gray details a little more “pop” to have their initial layers black. If you're using an AMS, it will print as expected without a pause. I didn't test it, but my understanding is it will pause at the color changes, if you're not.

This can be printed on any Bambu printer, including the A1 mini and can be printed in multi-color with or without an AMS (colors are on separate layers). The parts snap together and shouldn't require glue. Once assembled, the player board simply slides into the dashboard from the right side.

The top sections are intricately detailed, so their provided profile uses a 0.2mm nozzle. If you can't handle the LONG print times required and are less concerned with the (non-essential) details, the profile can be easily modified to use a 0.4mm nozzle with a 0.20mm layer height without issue (I tested with this originally).

Attached is a quick video that discusses the dashboard's features/gotchas and demonstrates its use. Someday, I'll invest in a decent camera setup…

Here's a quick video demonstrating assembly the dashboard. A couple of notes of clarification, you'll likely need to exert more force then I'm doing in this video, because I likely assembled, disassembled and reassembled this dashboard multiple times. Also, the only slots that might need touching up with an exacto knife are the ones along top and bottom of the bottom sections. None of the circular shaped tabs/slots required adjustment in any of my prints, although they were often very tight fitting.