Table Talk
Nothing here yet. Love this design? Say so - the designer might see it.

Cthulhu Death May Die Player Dashboard V1.1

Inserts Free
Plan Your Print
Optional multicolor profile The designer also offers a multicolor way to print this (an MMU/AMS profile or per-color parts)
About 110 g of filament From the designer's print profile
Print Profile (5) Top section as single piece for 256x256 bed printers 4h 46m 106 g PLA
Top section as single piece for 256x256 bed printers
2 plates 4h 46m 106 g PLA
P2S, H2D Pro, H2C, H2S, A1, H2D, X2D, A2L
4/22/26 UPDATE: Increased the size of the slots where the top and bottom sections join. For printers with a bed of 256x256mm (P1S, P2S. etc.) – the top piece is printed as single piece. The sides had to be slightly cropped, but it retains all the functionality of the 2 piece version. For a negligible downgrade in appearance, it simplifies assembly and should have less issues with the player board getting hung up while being slid into the dashboard. It also eliminates the issue with the insanity markers being too tight near where the 2 top pieces joined in the original 2 piece design . Overall, this is my preferred profile (for P1S, P2S and similarly sized printers).
Plate Details (2)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
3h 7m 38 g PLA · 4 g PLA · 4 g PLA · 28 g PLA · 2 g
Plate 2
1h 39m 68 g PLA · 68 g
0.12mm layer, 4 walls, 15% infill
4 plates 9h 1m 110 g PLA
P1S, X2D, P1P, X1, X1 Carbon, P2S, A1, H2C, X1E, H2D, H2D Pro, H2S, A2L
Plate Details (4)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
2h 11m 21 g PLA · 3 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 14 g PLA · 2 g
Plate 2
2h 40m 24 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 18 g PLA · 2 g
Plate 3
1h 55m 29 g PLA · 29 g
Plate 4
2h 15m 36 g PLA · 36 g
Single pieces for large bed printers (e.g. H2S)
2 plates 13h 57m 105 g PLA
H2S, H2D, H2C, H2D Pro
Plate Details (2)
0.2 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
5h 51m 40 g PLA · 4 g PLA · 4 g PLA · 30 g PLA · 2 g
Plate 2
8h 6m 65 g PLA · 65 g
Bigger and deeper holes for the insanity track (requested)
3 plates 8h 59m 119 g PLA
P2S, P1P, X1 Carbon, X1, A1, P1S, H2D Pro, X1E, H2S, H2C, H2D, X2D, A2L
I made the holes in the insanity track 0.5mm wider in diameter for a less tight fit. The downside of this change is the markers can be dislodged more easily, so I increased the hole's depth by 1mm to help compensate. Also, I combined the 2 bottom sections onto 1 plate and increased their line height and widths to reduce their print time. I'm not sure that I prefer this looser fit over tighter fit of the original, but this change was requested, so I decided to provide it as a remix to give everyone a choice.
Plate Details (3)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
2h 13m 22 g PLA · 3 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 15 g PLA · 2 g
Plate 2
2h 44m 26 g PLA · 3 g PLA · 2 g PLA · 19 g PLA · 2 g
Plate 3
4h 2m 71 g PLA · 71 g
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
1 plate 1h 40m 70 g PLA
A1, P1P, X2D, H2C, P2S, H2D, X1, X1 Carbon, H2D Pro, P1S, H2S, X1E, A2L
Plate Details (1)
0.4 mm nozzle, all plates
Plate 1
1h 40m 70 g PLA · 70 g
As sliced by the designer. Your printer, filament, and settings may change these numbers.
Designer's Description

4/22/26 UPDATE: Increased the size of the slots where the top and bottom sections join.

UPDATE: If you have a medium sized bed (256x256 – like the P1S or P2S), my recommendation is to use the “ Top section as single piece for 256x256 bed printers" printer profile.

Minor revisions to the previous design, including reducing the depth that the tentacle markers sit inside the dashboard and making that depth fixed (not dependent on how flush the dashboard is to the actual cardboard dashboard underneath) See pics. Minor change to the bottom to bevel the joining edge of the left side to (hopefully) help reduce drag. As I no longer feel it's worth printing the top portion with a 0.2mm nozzle, all parts are included in this single profile. For more details and pictures, see the original project here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2498228-cthulhu-death-may-die-player-dashboard

If you prefer not to color the added geometry (for enforcing the depth) white and keep it tan instead, delete the filament changes at layers 6 and 7 in the preview. I've printed it both ways and it looks good either way. If I didn't have an AMS, I wouldn't hassle with the additional filament changes to add white. I only made it the default because it more closely matches the cardboard player dashboard's artwork.